Not a long post here. Just a quick surf update to say that today after work I paddled out and caught my first wave that I can actually say I surfed. No falling over after a few seconds. No riding mush straight to the beach.
Nothing fancy. It was a right that was bit more than waist high. Even so, I caught it, turned down the line, and rode the the thing. I even managed a slow-motion cutback that would have impressed a sea slug.
True to form, I didn't leave the water uninjured. I was surfing a little south of my normal spot and didn't know the reef there. Managed to cut my foot a bit, though not too bad.
NICE!!! The first of many.
Posted by: Patrick | October 09, 2009 at 03:35 PM